The Ornellaia 2023 Le Volte dell'Ornellaia, a blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot, reveals a rich, chewy core of dark, sweet fruit, with blackberry tart and pitted prune on the bouquet that clearly signal the warmth of the vintage. Softness and sweetness follow on the palate, but the level of ripeness goes overboard, in my view, especially given the rather watery mid-palate, detracting from the wine’s natural grace and instead delivering a heavy impression accented by background notes of bitter tea leaf.
Subdued aromas of cassis and Mediterranean scrub emerge from the glass. The firm palate offers sour cherry, tangerine zest and tobacco alongside taut tannins.
A blend of Merlot, Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon, the Ornellaia 2020 Le Volte dell'Ornellaia shows medium darkness and texture followed by a very primary and fruit-forward bouquet. There is a generous display of cherry, cassis and wild plum. On second nose, this easy and straightforward Tuscan blend reveals hints of spice, cardamon and polished river stone. In a hot vintage like this, the wine comes together nicely and rather effortlessly.