Biondi Santi - Brunello di Montalcino - Riserva
98 points - The Wine Advocate
98 points - The Wine Advocate
97 points - The Wine Advocate
96 points - The Wine Advocate
Biondi Santi - Brunello di Montalcino - Riserva
98 points - The Wine Advocate
98 points - The Wine Advocate
97 points - The Wine Advocate
96 points - The Wine Advocate
Prix normal€694.80
€694.80
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- Inventaire en cours
The Biondi-Santi 2015 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is initially a reticent wine and one that does not immediately subscribe to the overstated abundance and exuberance of the vintage. Give it time. I wrote this review after several tastings over several days so I could ensure a more accurate account of the wine's elegant reveal.
Contemplative and exceedingly nuanced in personality, with wild berry, underbrush, ferrous earth and candied orange peel, this has everything to look forward to in terms of its future evolution in the bottle. It displays a ruby color that borders on garnet and polished copper. A silky, mid-weight palate is accented by beautifully managed and silky tannins (this aspect of the mouthfeel is extraordinary), bright freshness and long-lasting fruit momentum.
The Biondi-Santi 2013 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is a stunning wine from all points of view. Seamless integration and elegant complexity are what stand out, and it's worth dedicating a few extra lines to the aromatic depth that is put so beautifully on display as the wine slowly unfolds. The bouquet starts off with wild cherry, earth, wet ash, crème de cassis and pruney chocolate. With extra time, there are hints of dried tobacco leaf, sandalwood, and mossy forest floor. These lead to a fine tail of dried herb, bay leaf and a touch of rusty nail.
The Riserva comes in numbered bottles, and I opened number 04277. To the palate, the wine is streamlined and silky with smooth tannins and a well-managed 13.5% alcohol content. The oak presence is reduced to a minimum, offering mild hints of spice and the delicate sandalwood or dried fig aroma I described above. Fresh acidity is the glue that gives the wine buoyancy and staying power. At this young stage, this 2013 vintage could be considered a bit shy or slow to start, but this will play out to great advantage in the long term as the wine continues its bottle evolution.
You will notice the dedication printed below the label of the wine label. It reads: "Dedicato a Franco Biondi Santi." Indeed, the Biondi-Santi 2012 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is the last vintage made by the towering father figure of Brunello whom most everyone referred to as the "gentleman of Montalcino." Il Dottore, as he was also respectfully addressed, died at age 91 in April 2013, and he was very active in the winery as this magnificent wine took shape. This Riserva is a true work of beauty.
It is released one year later than usual. The wine reflects the natural heft and power of the 2012 vintage, and it also shows that distinctive open-knit and accessible personality that characterizes this warm and sunny growing season. Il Dottore's magic touch is revealed in the level of fine detail and precision that transcends vintage, grape and territory. That extreme focus is an achievement of this estate alone located in the celebrated Il Greppo property. This Brunello pours from the bottle with a magnificent garnet colour, and it evolves in the glass with dark fruit, candied orange peel, spice, liquorice, anise seed, cola, and balsam herb. The aromas are magical and ethereal, albeit slightly ripe and soft as expected of this vintage.
The 2010 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is slow to open, and I spent a good amount of extra time with this wine as a result. It was well worth the wait. The intensity inches up in baby steps. With time, the wine is splendent and focused with a very direct and impactful delivery of aromas. It also shows a specifically floral personality with dried rose petal or blue violet that I did not recognize in most of the other Brunellos from this classic vintage.
There is power and determination behind those feminine aromas. The wine makes a lasting impression in the mouth, thanks to the textual tightness of its tannins and the refreshing crispness of the acidity. The Riserva sees fruit sourced from Il Greppo's oldest vines (25-years-old and more) and the wine ages in traditional oak casks for three years.
Type : |
Rouge |
Pays : |
Italie |
Région : |
Toscane |
Appellation : |
Brunello di Montalcino DOCG |
Producteur : |
Biondi Santi |
Raisins/mélange : |
Sangiovese |
ABV: |
13.5% |
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