Henriques & Henriques - Verdelho - Medium Dry - 15 yrs

The non-vintage 15-Year-Old Verdelho has a Baume of 1.9 degrees. It has a terse, orange rind, California raisin and dried apricot-scented bouquet with attractive resinous aromas emerging with aeration. The palate is well-balanced with superb acidity, crisp, honeyed fruit and a delicious spicy finish that is focused and tense. This is one of the best in their range. Henriques & Henriques was founded in 1850 by Joao Joachim Goncalves Henriques, and through a family member they owned some of the finest vineyards in Camara de Lobos where, allegedly, the island’s first vines were planted in 1425. Having absorbed several houses at the turn of the century, they sold wines to other shippers before commencing exportation in 1925. Peter Cossart ran the company from 1938, and it was his brother Noel who authored the indispensable book, “The Island Vineyard.” He was succeeded by John Cossart who, sadly, passed away in 2008. They own their own vineyards, the 10 hectare Quinta Grande that was planted in 1995, and the present winemaker is Luis Pereira. Overall, I found these Madeiras to be a little inconsistent, occasionally exhibiting too much caramel-like aromas and flavors. However, there are delights to be found.